> Hello all,
>
>  I just finished my first double sided board using UV to transfer the
> tracks. The board turned out really well, except I'm having a problem while
> drilling. When drilling holes that don't have a track attached (ie: just a
> pad), the pad lifts off the board and goes onto the drill bit? It really
> isn't a HUGE problem since there is no track attached, but I do lose a
> soldering point... which brings me to my next question.
>
>  Are there any techniques used for soldering a component on both sides of
> the board?  What I mean is that it's easy to solder the bottom side of the
> board since it's just the component leads that stick out... but on the top
> side, I have to sorta squeeze the iron between the board and the component
> - this can easily burn the component, and it looks kind of messy since the
> component isn't all the way down against the board. But I can't think of
> any other way to solder it to the top tracks??? I hope I have explained
> myself clearly,
>
> Thank you,
>
> Jai
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------
> This mail sent through http://www.mywaterloo.ca

>  my next question.
>
>  Are there any techniques used for soldering a component on
> both sides of the
> board?  What I mean is that it's easy to solder the bottom
> side of the board
> since it's just the component leads that stick out... but on
> the top side, I
> have to sorta squeeze the iron between the board and the
> component - this can
> easily burn the component, and it looks kind of messy since
> the component isn't
> all the way down against the board. But I can't think of any
> other way to
> solder it to the top tracks??? I hope I have explained myself clearly,
>
> Thank you,
>
> Jai
>

> Sounds like a problem with the brand or PCB you're using, or perhaps a bad
> (dull) drill bit...?  I have not had this problem, using harbor-freight drill
>
> bits, and a drill press operating at about 1000 rpm.
>
> Many techniques to solder w/o plated-thru holes....
> - Suspend part about 1/4" (more or less depending on part) above board so you
>
> have access to solder the top.   Works well for me, except I question the
> mechanical hold on the part if I'm going to use the board in a vehicle, etc.
> - Tin the leads on the part, solder same as above, then slowly push the part
>
> down while keeping the lead heated, and sort of "squish" the solder on.  I've
>
> had poor results with this.
> - Design the board so that the pads are mostly on the bottom, except where
> you
> know you have access to the top (like vertically-mounted axial caps, etc).  I
>
> always do this nowadays and it definitely solves a lot of problems.
> - Add additional vias just outside of the component pads and component
> dimensions for the connection.
>
>
> Cheers,
> -Neil.
>
>
>
> On Thursday 24 April 2003 19:20, Jai Dhar wrote:
> > Hello all,
> >
> >  I just finished my first double sided board using UV to transfer the
> > tracks. The board turned out really well, except I'm having a problem
> while
> > drilling. When drilling holes that don't have a track attached (ie: just a
> > pad), the pad lifts off the board and goes onto the drill bit? It really
> > isn't a HUGE problem since there is no track attached, but I do lose a
> > soldering point... which brings me to my next question.
> >
> >  Are there any techniques used for soldering a component on both sides of
> > the board?  What I mean is that it's easy to solder the bottom side of the
> > board since it's just the component leads that stick out... but on the top
> > side, I have to sorta squeeze the iron between the board and the component
> > - this can easily burn the component, and it looks kind of messy since the
> > component isn't all the way down against the board. But I can't think of
> > any other way to solder it to the top tracks??? I hope I have explained
> > myself clearly,
> >
> > Thank you,
> >
> > Jai
> >
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------
> > This mail sent through http://www.mywaterloo.ca
>
> --
> http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different
> ways.  See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.
>

> Well, I'm using a good quality Dremel Multipro tool with the drill stand,
> but not on the highest speed setting or anything. I'm on the 3rd setting
> out of 10, and the reason I do'nt go higher is because smoke is coming out
> of the board when I drill a hole, heh. I'm afraid if I go faster, it will
> light the board on fire or melt it :-) But I will give it a try just to
> see. As for the soldering, it seems that the best way to do it is plan a
> bit ahead, or place vias near it. It's a shame because it took so much work
> to do my current board, I don't want to do it again :-( I guess you learn
> these things along the way....
>
>  Quoting Picdude <.....picdudeKILLspam@spam@NARWANI.ORG>:
> > Sounds like a problem with the brand or PCB you're using, or perhaps a
> > bad (dull) drill bit...?  I have not had this problem, using
> > harbor-freight drill
> >
> > bits, and a drill press operating at about 1000 rpm.
> >
> > Many techniques to solder w/o plated-thru holes....
> > - Suspend part about 1/4" (more or less depending on part) above board so
> > you
> >
> > have access to solder the top.   Works well for me, except I question the
> > mechanical hold on the part if I'm going to use the board in a vehicle,
> > etc. - Tin the leads on the part, solder same as above, then slowly push
> > the part
> >
> > down while keeping the lead heated, and sort of "squish" the solder on.
> > I've
> >
> > had poor results with this.
> > - Design the board so that the pads are mostly on the bottom, except
> > where you
> > know you have access to the top (like vertically-mounted axial caps,
> > etc).  I
> >
> > always do this nowadays and it definitely solves a lot of problems.
> > - Add additional vias just outside of the component pads and component
> > dimensions for the connection.
> >
> >
> > Cheers,
> > -Neil.
> >
> > On Thursday 24 April 2003 19:20, Jai Dhar wrote:
> > > Hello all,
> > >
> > >  I just finished my first double sided board using UV to transfer the
> > > tracks. The board turned out really well, except I'm having a problem
> >
> > while
> >
> > > drilling. When drilling holes that don't have a track attached (ie:
> > > just a pad), the pad lifts off the board and goes onto the drill bit?
> > > It really isn't a HUGE problem since there is no track attached, but I
> > > do lose a soldering point... which brings me to my next question.
> > >
> > >  Are there any techniques used for soldering a component on both sides
> > > of the board?  What I mean is that it's easy to solder the bottom side
> > > of the board since it's just the component leads that stick out... but
> > > on the top side, I have to sorta squeeze the iron between the board and
> > > the component - this can easily burn the component, and it looks kind
> > > of messy since the component isn't all the way down against the board.
> > > But I can't think of any other way to solder it to the top tracks??? I
> > > hope I have explained myself clearly,
> > >
> > > Thank you,
> > >
> > > Jai
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ----------------------------------------
> > > This mail sent through http://www.mywaterloo.ca
> >
> > --
> > http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different
> > ways.  See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.
>
> ----------------------------------------
> This mail sent through http://www.mywaterloo.ca

> If I solder and re-solder on a pad a half-dozen times, it will lift
> eventually.  Perhaps you're overheating the board as it is?  Try the very
> slowest setting.  No need for anything too fast as the board drills quite
> quickly.
>
> Yes, plan ahead, or look for those eyelets Chris L. just mentioned.  I've
> never found a source for them in the US, so haven't bothered to try.  But if
>
> I get my hands on some, I definitely will.  It's the last step in making
> fully professional boards.
>
> Cheers,
> -Neil.
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday 24 April 2003 20:04, Jai Dhar wrote:
> > Well, I'm using a good quality Dremel Multipro tool with the drill stand,
> > but not on the highest speed setting or anything. I'm on the 3rd setting
> > out of 10, and the reason I do'nt go higher is because smoke is coming out
> > of the board when I drill a hole, heh. I'm afraid if I go faster, it will
> > light the board on fire or melt it :-) But I will give it a try just to
> > see. As for the soldering, it seems that the best way to do it is plan a
> > bit ahead, or place vias near it. It's a shame because it took so much
> work
> > to do my current board, I don't want to do it again :-( I guess you learn
> > these things along the way....
> >
> >  Quoting Picdude <.....picdudeKILLspam.....NARWANI.ORG>:
> > > Sounds like a problem with the brand or PCB you're using, or perhaps a
> > > bad (dull) drill bit...?  I have not had this problem, using
> > > harbor-freight drill
> > >
> > > bits, and a drill press operating at about 1000 rpm.
> > >
> > > Many techniques to solder w/o plated-thru holes....
> > > - Suspend part about 1/4" (more or less depending on part) above board
> so
> > > you
> > >
> > > have access to solder the top.   Works well for me, except I question
> the
> > > mechanical hold on the part if I'm going to use the board in a vehicle,
> > > etc. - Tin the leads on the part, solder same as above, then slowly push
> > > the part
> > >
> > > down while keeping the lead heated, and sort of "squish" the solder on.
> > > I've
> > >
> > > had poor results with this.
> > > - Design the board so that the pads are mostly on the bottom, except
> > > where you
> > > know you have access to the top (like vertically-mounted axial caps,
> > > etc).  I
> > >
> > > always do this nowadays and it definitely solves a lot of problems.
> > > - Add additional vias just outside of the component pads and component
> > > dimensions for the connection.
> > >
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > > -Neil.
> > >
> > > On Thursday 24 April 2003 19:20, Jai Dhar wrote:
> > > > Hello all,
> > > >
> > > >  I just finished my first double sided board using UV to transfer the
> > > > tracks. The board turned out really well, except I'm having a problem
> > >
> > > while
> > >
> > > > drilling. When drilling holes that don't have a track attached (ie:
> > > > just a pad), the pad lifts off the board and goes onto the drill bit?
> > > > It really isn't a HUGE problem since there is no track attached, but I
> > > > do lose a soldering point... which brings me to my next question.
> > > >
> > > >  Are there any techniques used for soldering a component on both sides
> > > > of the board?  What I mean is that it's easy to solder the bottom side
> > > > of the board since it's just the component leads that stick out... but
> > > > on the top side, I have to sorta squeeze the iron between the board
> and
> > > > the component - this can easily burn the component, and it looks kind
> > > > of messy since the component isn't all the way down against the board.
> > > > But I can't think of any other way to solder it to the top tracks??? I
> > > > hope I have explained myself clearly,
> > > >
> > > > Thank you,
> > > >
> > > > Jai
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----------------------------------------
> > > > This mail sent through http://www.mywaterloo.ca
> > >
> > > --
> > > http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different
> > > ways.  See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.
> >
> > ----------------------------------------
> > This mail sent through http://www.mywaterloo.ca
>
> --
> http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different
> ways.  See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.
>

>From: William Chops Westfield <EraseMEbillwspam_OUTTakeThisOuTCISCO.COM>
>Reply-To: pic microcontroller discussion list <PICLISTspam_OUTMITVMA.MIT.EDU>
>To: @spam@PICLISTKILLspamMITVMA.MIT.EDU
>Subject: Re: [OT]: Drilling and soldering
>Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 18:15:34 PDT
>
>I try to restict the topside pads that need soldering to a minimum on my
>amateur-made non-plated-though boards.  When it's required, I try to
>pick components and pads where (separate) topside solding isn't difficult,
>such as resistor leads as opposed to IC leads, and definately not leads
>that are underneath a package.  Ideally, you can add vias (containing
>bare wire that you solder easilly on both sides before adding other
>components) in places of pads that expect connectivity on both sides.
>
>On the other hand, this is something of a pain, and results in board
>designs that are somewhat "weird" and cry out for redesign should they
>ever get sent to a professional board house...
>
>BillW
>
>--
>http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different
>ways.  See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.

>
> Hello all,
>
>  I just finished my first double sided board using UV to transfer the tracks.
> The board turned out really well, except I'm having a problem while drilling.
> When drilling holes that don't have a track attached (ie: just a pad), the pad
> lifts off the board and goes onto the drill bit? It really isn't a HUGE problem
> since there is no track attached, but I do lose a soldering point... which
> brings me to my next question.
>
>  Are there any techniques used for soldering a component on both sides of the
> board?  What I mean is that it's easy to solder the bottom side of the board
> since it's just the component leads that stick out... but on the top side, I
> have to sorta squeeze the iron between the board and the component - this can
> easily burn the component, and it looks kind of messy since the component isn't
> all the way down against the board. But I can't think of any other way to
> solder it to the top tracks??? I hope I have explained myself clearly,
>
> Thank you,
>
> Jai
>
> ----------------------------------------
> This mail sent through http://www.mywaterloo.ca
>
> --
> http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different
> ways.  See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.

>From: Colin Constant <spamBeGonecolinpiclistspamBeGoneHOTMAIL.COM>
>Reply-To: pic microcontroller discussion list <TakeThisOuTPICLISTEraseMEspam_OUTMITVMA.MIT.EDU>
>To: RemoveMEPICLISTTakeThisOuTMITVMA.MIT.EDU
>Subject: Re: [OT]: Drilling and soldering
>Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 20:25:01 -0600
>
>The other thing to try is bigger pads.
>
>Colin
>
>
>>From: William Chops Westfield <billwEraseME.....CISCO.COM>
>>Reply-To: pic microcontroller discussion list <EraseMEPICLISTMITVMA.MIT.EDU>
>>To: RemoveMEPICLISTEraseMEEraseMEMITVMA.MIT.EDU
>>Subject: Re: [OT]: Drilling and soldering
>>Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 18:15:34 PDT
>>
>>I try to restict the topside pads that need soldering to a minimum on my
>>amateur-made non-plated-though boards.  When it's required, I try to
>>pick components and pads where (separate) topside solding isn't difficult,
>>such as resistor leads as opposed to IC leads, and definately not leads
>>that are underneath a package.  Ideally, you can add vias (containing
>>bare wire that you solder easilly on both sides before adding other
>>components) in places of pads that expect connectivity on both sides.
>>
>>On the other hand, this is something of a pain, and results in board
>>designs that are somewhat "weird" and cry out for redesign should they
>>ever get sent to a professional board house...
>>
>>BillW
>>
>>--
>>http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different
>>ways.  See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
>http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
>
>--
>http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different
>ways.  See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.

> all the way down against the board. But I can't think of any other way to
> solder it to the top tracks??? I hope I have explained myself clearly,
>
> Thank you,
>
> Jai
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------
> This mail sent through http://www.mywaterloo.ca
>
> --
> http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different
> ways.  See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.
>